Kuta Bali to beautiful Ubud

There are times and places as a backpacker that really make you stop and wonder.

So far Bali  has been one of those places! 

I've only been here a few days but already I have had many of those moments.... Moments when you find yourself sipping cocktails on the beach, surfing, watching temple sunsets and when you're late night swimming in super club infinity pools. 

So far Bali has also been full of amazing people for me. Eli, a Norweign turned Bali resident who has been an absolute star picking me up from the airport to having me stay and showing me the best spots all over the south. Mara the cutest English girl I met while lying on the floor. That kind of says it all! Dana, a not so typical American and Anya the sweetest Swiss darling.

I didn't expect any of this when I set off  for cockroaches and creepy crawlies in my bed. I mean I don't mind the odd cockroach but  Bali's best bits so far have been just the opposite of my imagination! 

On the other hand I'm writing this from a shuttle bus on the way to Ubud. 

Kuta, my first stop on Bali is crowded. Like super crowded! Admittedly my impression comes following stays on remote islands and in the deepest jungle, but even by western standards I would say this place is going to pop! 

I mean if dodgy 90's anthems and fat Australian tourists is your thing you would be in heaven! Unfortunately for me I have come to Bali and went travelling in general to find something quite the opposite.

Here's hoping Ubud with its Monkey Forest, sun temples and countless yoga and meditation joints holds the answer.

My birthday is in a week and this year all I wish is for peace :) 

Overstaying in Sandakan

For those of you that are jealous I'm currently on yet another bus. The very same bus that took 9 hours on the way here. That and we have just broken down.... 

On the upside I'm travelling with super darling dutch girl Karin... 

We are currently en route back to Kota Kinabalu to catch our flights. Soon to be separated at the airport Karin is heading north where as il be speeding south to Bali. The time has flown in already but I have to say Sandakan, the city I planned as a base has actually been great! 

I did plan to leave Sandakan when I came back from my stay in the rainforest 3 or 4 days ago but after meeting up with Karin again and meeting lots of others from all over I didn't get around to getting my bus. Luckily I did today as I've just checked my flight to Bali which I thought was 2 days away but turns out its tomorrow! 

When I first got back to the city  it was a pleasant change from forest. It was refreshing to see lots of locals and backpackers milling about, it was sweet to pick some food from one of the many food stalls and if I'm honest It was great to chill on a big sofa once again. I spent most of last Thursday afternoon doing just that. Checking Facebook, facetiming and watching the news.... I felt backpacker guilt. 

Although it is necessary to have a regular day when on a such a long journey as mine every time I do so i still feel super guilty.  I mean it's different lying about the house when there's nothing to do but when so much of the wonderful world is literally on your doorstep it feels wrong. 

Friday came and we decided to head out. Now in the area I had literally seen every temple, been to most museums, immersed myself in the nearby nature parks and did just about everything else that East Borneo had to throw at me so after a bit of deliberation we decided on this place....   

Ok so there was no deliberation. We had heard  from another backpacker and after a quick google we jumped at the chance of another lazy day. This time beside the pool with a sauna and steam room to boot! 

It's was great! Better still we stayed and had an amazing buffet lunch (with western type food ie. no bloody bones!) and to finish off the day we drank into the wee hours wearing wigs and dancing our socks off at the hostel.....

                    (Dont even ask!) 

The next few days followed a similar routine. This time spent in the local 5* swigging on cocktails the price of our room and watching sunsets as the hours floated past on fluffy clouds... 

Yes I did overspend on money and on time in one place and yea I lived in what we branded as 'backpacker lux' but now as I look back I feel no more guilt. Looking back we had a fucking ball! We lived a life of pretend luxury with a love in our hearts for the rather small yet seductive city called Sandakan. 

The heart of beautiful Borneo :)

Before I even start I'm writing this blog from here....

That pretty much says it all. Writing on the riverbank as the sunrises over the rainforest while crocodiles cruise past at 5am on a Wednesday morning. 

This place, The Kinabatang River in the heart of Borneo is nothing short of amazing! 

This trip to the virgin jungle, much like many other experience whilst backpacking started with a tip off. After meeting the lovely Patrice (Israel) in a hostel in Cebu and learning that a trip like this was actually possible as soon as I got to Borneo the boat hire and travel tour company she recommended was my first stop. 

Now it doesn't break the bank by UK standards but even after haggling with the man like a loon I did end up paying more than  a weeks budget. In fairness everything has been included for 3 days and the food, guides, lodge, trips and treks everyday so far have been amazing. Hoping for this and with the voice of Davey Attenborough in my ear I booked with him for the next morning and what a few days its been since! 

The road down was actually quite depressing. Leaving the city was so refreshing but as soon as we did it was palm oil plantations as far as the eye could see. I mean I know it's Borneos number one industry but at the same time it was sad to know these plantations once laid home to such a diversity of animals and plants that are now gone forever. The plantations continued for hours until we stopped. In fact I was horrified when we did! We stopped in a small village surrounded by them and I thought then that I had been sold some rainforest knock off in some shitty Malaysian backwater. 

Luckily I hadn't been and was relieved as my guide grabbed my bags, handed me my wellies, a massive rain poncho and his 'safari hat'. It was obvious from there that he knew how to please a man as he guided me down a nearby river bank and onto an awaiting boat. 

This, the first of many boat rides was the first of my amazing experiences here. As we darted off down river and I was soon greeted by a scene that was no word of a lie just as i would imagine my first impressions of 'Jurassic Park'. 

You can't see in this or indeed any of my pictures but the scale of the rainforest is breathtaking! 

I arrived at my lodge some time after and after finding my room, a bamboo house on stilts set deep in the jungle I was straight back out for dinner on the river bank followed by a river safari as the sun set.

It was awe inspiring seeing the environment itself but witnessing the many animals including Orang-utans, Proboscis Monkeys, Makak's, Slow Loris', Leaf Monkey's, Eagles, Hornbills, crocodiles, massive monitor lizards, snakes and so many crazy insects amongst others is absolutely amazing! 

So far we have been boat riding, trekking day and night with leeches and all...

...I've planted a few trees in the rainforest as part of the WWF Corridor Of Life project and at last I've had the chance to work on my meditation. 

I'm so happy! Now it's back to Sandakan to meet some friends followed by a trip to the g caves then Kota Kinabalu for a stay on the mountain before I catch my flight to Bali for my birthday! 

Seriously pinching myself here!  

Beautiful Borneo! Or not?

Kota was crap! Sorry to be negative but the truth was I expected Borneo to be all endless rainforest and deep ravines. What I did find in Kota Kinabalu was another sprawling Asian city. The very sort I shall be avoiding in future.

On the upside I did met some amazing people there. Most notably Wil (USA) and Anna (Germany). I spent most of my 2 or 3 days there exploring the cities food markets and many shops as at night there wasn't too much to do but relax. I mean it's a predominantly Muslim country so the drink is proper expensive in comparison and the bars that are around are pretty abysmal  if you ask me. 

After eating and chilling until I was either close to nirvana or pretty near death I decided on the 3rd day, once hearing from lots of other travellers, to pack my bags and head south. 

I got up at 7am and packed my bags for Sandakan. Knowing nothing but those few tales and armed only with my lonely planet I hit the bus terminal to find I had missed my bus. I had to wait for 3 hours but this was made better by the most beautiful Malaysian boys eyes as he stared and made rather inappropriate signals and signs to me while waiting with his boyfriend. It seemed my time here was looking up. 

It wasn't quite though as I somehow thought the bus was a mere 3 hour journey which actually turned out to be a little less than 9. I mean the bus was nice with its plush seats, air con and the constant whiff of weed but that time spent beside a fidgety Chinese boy can never be too productive. 

I arrived in the dark and after quickly finding a pretty cool hostel at the harbour I got to sleep with not a clue of what I was going to do the next day.

This morning I got up around 7am and as I was wondering once more on what to get up to I met the most adorable couple having breakfast. Soon after saying hello and after finding out that I was planning to do the same trip I was soon sharing a taxi on my way to nearby Sipilok. 

I ended up staying with Martin and Becky all day and what a day it was! 

Today was the first day I've seen blistering sunshine in a while and as we first visited the orang-utan sanctuary and then the rainforest discovery centre we seen a plethora of other species.

 

The 'wild man of Borneo' did not disappoint and as we trekked through the rainforest canopy, along its many paths, across the traditional rope brides and the "I'm a celeb" type walkways the  Makak's and other monkeys, the many birds, the lizards and odd freaky insect didn't either.