Into the clouds...

After our heavy work load in the heat at the heart of Phnom Penh the prospect of seeing my parents was a welcome change, it was getting so close! On checking the folks' itinerary we realised that our voluntary work ended just as they started their three part trip. The question for us was just where we might meet up with them. 

On booking our flights we realised that our Cambodian visa ended just when mum and dad hit Bangkok. That pre mentioned big bastard of a city was our first choice for a possible connection too. On reflection we thought we wouldn't meet quite yet in Bangkok and rather meet a little later in their third seaside location of Hua Hin. Besides their hotel pool there was much nicer. 

I have wanted to visit Northern Thailand for a long time now and seeing that the flights northbound were so cheap I thought we "might aswell" take a sneaky week up there to explore and see what all the buzz is about. 

The buzz is well founded!

First stop for us was Chaing Mai and flying in our trip started on the runway. From runway to room this relatively big town was pretty cute. I always talk about a vibe in a place and this place had one. We had booked at Dee Jai's backpackers and bearing in mind we had been living in our own place for a month we once again welcomed the change to meet new people to share some new experiences with. At Dee Jai's we met up with American Steve and spent most of our time there with him. 

Emma and I had landed (once again) slap bang in the middle of a festival and after meeting up with Steve on the first night we headed round to the main square to catch the annual flower festival. Clouds of incense hung heavy in the air, lanterns floated away and hung from all the trees, the flowers that had given the festival its name lay all around and thousands of festival goers held baskets full of beautiful bouquets to bestow the many holy statues. An incredible first night was had in what turned out to be a few weeks in Northern Thailand. 

In Chiang Mai we explored by bike and found many amazing temples, view points, waterfalls and mountain treks...

On what we had planned to be our penultimate night we had a few too many drinks. After those drinks and the conversation that followed we decided that rather than leave the North so quickly we would take another few days in this part of the world. 

The next day, bleary eyed and frankly feeling like I wanted to be sick we briefly headed out and booked a bus to Pai for first thing the next day. 

The next day's bus ride was beautiful. The start of a few days spent in what became one of my favourite places on this Asia trip. 

In Pai we seen friends we had made in Chiang Mai and booked into a place just down the road from their hostel. For next to nothing a night we were lucky enough to have an amazing view over the mountains set up in the hills themselves and overlooking the small town below. 

Pai itself is quite small and bar a few restaurants and places to eat, smoke, drink and munch mushrooms there isn't really a lot more to see. Sure who needs more when you have all that anyways. 

In Pai we had a few wild days but also made a point of getting out on our motorbike to explore the surrounding countryside too. We biked from the canyon to waterfalls and every temple in between. Our time living in the clouds came to an end all too soon. On leaving day as we packed our bags for a long trip to Bangkok, I promised myself I would be back.

To Bangkok and onward to Hua Hin...  

Dark history.

Phnom Penh wasn't all crazy classes and incredible kids. We did take time to explore the city and in a country with such a dark history exploration often took the form of genocide museums, prisons and previously used prison camps. Of course we didn't spent every day or night off in these notorious places but when we weren't to be seen in my friend Carla's bar, Showbox, or beside the pool at PP Sports Club we could most probably be found at some of this side of the worlds most shocking sites. 

On my Travels I had heard so much about this aspect of Cambodia's historical places/ tourist traps and truthfully I often found the recital of days spent there a little distasteful. It was as if anyone I had spoken to about the infamous Killing Fields, Genocide Museum and torture camp S-21 enjoyed adding in gory extras and embellishments to the truth. I imagined that on retelling numbers tripled, sights got more scary, feeling got intensified and, to be honest, people told quite a few fibs to make their story more intense. Turns out I had heard no lies. If anything as many words would fail to describe the true horrors that took place on those sites and many thousands more all over Cambodia just over 30 years ago. 

A genocidal regime, The Khmer Rouge, held power in Cambodia from 1975-1979. An estimated 3 million people died during that time. The Khmer Rouge, closely associated their ideals with the ideology of the communist forerunners Stalinism and Maoism... because communism was clearly working out well for them? 

The consequences of the social and ethnic cleansing that followed is abhorrent and an absolute affront to anything I hope we would hold close as human values in the west today. 

What I found most shocking is how fresh the wounds from the many tragedies in Cambodia are. War crime tribunals are still ongoing and so many people are still as yet, and most probably will remain, not convicted.

These and many of the other tragedies and traumas that Cambodia has had to endure have, in my small experience and understanding, made the Khmer culture of today even closer, more coherent with its own ideals and most of all friendly and welcoming to each other and all that come in contact. Peace and love often prevail in some of the worlds darkest acts and atrocities.  

Teaching Cambodia

COLT, the Cambodian Organisation for Living and Training is based in the heart of Cambodia's capital, Phnom Penh. I first heard about this NGO (non- governmental organisation) when in Southern Thailand a few christmas' ago. I spent that year drinking rum on freedom beach with new friends one of which, amazing Australian Carla, told me all about the project she was volunteering at and after singing its praises I decided then I would at some point make a point of visiting or, if they would have me, volunteering my time teaching the shelter children and at the orphanage based there. 

I had after some time and many thousands of miles travelled eventually picked up the courage to compose an email to the Charity. Its seems silly to think but although my work with the many organisations and charities I have spent time with is, by nature, voluntary I still feel like I'm applying for something so much more than the assumed. After all, a place at a well run and organised organisation were I can freely give back, educate and be educated myself is pretty priceless. Priceless for me and hopefully the people, plants and animals you sign up to serve. 

Frida the NGO project manager and all round good human was straight on the reply. After quite a few emails back and forward along with numerous experience and police checks I got the final confirmation of acceptance for a months voluntary work. I remember reviewing the email when I was in Melbourne, elated at my now forming plans for the near future. 

We got the night bus down from Siem  Reap and with the help of a few pretty dodgy (though legal) pills I slept the whole way, result! On driving into Phnom Penh and it's unbelievable heat and humidity our smooth ride was abruptly stopped, we got thrown out in the milittddle of the road and as for the next step to take both Emma and I were completely lost. We called Carla, that inspiring friend I had met on the beach In Thailand and thankfully she was more than helpful to us finding our feet. We stayed in an overpriced hotel the first night followed by a day trekking in near 50 degree heat to find reasonable accommodation that would have us for a month. Thankfully with the help of Frida we found a little flat just 5 minutes from the shelter and orphanage. We sat that night and unpacked in the cool flat air as I sat nervous with what tomorrow, my first day, had in store. 

      House searching in Phnom Penh

Day one came and luckily as I arrived I found that I was starting and being inducted with another fellow volunteer, Maria. Maria was an absolute star, always helpful, ready for a laugh to relax and generally amazing throughout my teaching time there. 

My first day went smooth and just as I was about to leave happily planning in my head for the next day Frida asked about Emma. I had previously mentioned that I was travelling with my cousin and as it turned out the organisation was short of a Kindergarten teacher for the "live in" shelter children so I said I would ask. 

             Week 1 planning at TLJ 

I rode my motorbike home and bust through the door with so much to say after quite a bit of rambling and raving I got to the point. Quite a lot of questions and after a lot of thought Emma eventually settled on the idea of going to speak to Frida the next day and to see what she might expect. 

The next day was the beginning of a month of Emma and I working together at COLT. We both arrived at the shelter and as I headed off to school Emma headed into the office for that chat. By the time I took a class break I quickly ran back to check and there in the little tin roofed classroom was Emma and 7 super excited children. 

Our month at COLT was for me one of the very best experiences I have had so far. Emma and I both enjoyed the children on all the levels that we had the opportunity to teach. COLT is the type of organisation that through exceptionally high standards really does make a difference in the lives of the children that depend on it. As far as NGO's stand I would say Frida and the team at COLT are by far the most professional and effective a project I have ever worked with. Credit to them! 

Having the time to build personal relationships with the children here has given me a whole new perspective on education, social aid projects and initiatives around the world. We hope we inspired other but for me the inspiration for my future is absolutely priceless. 

On leaving both Emma and I shed a little tear on our bike. Last days are always tough but smiling children each with a small gift, a letter or a drawing in their hands just about sent us over the edge.

                        By Kosal

For more information on COLT and the amazing work they do visit www.colt-cambodia.org

Khmer New Year!

Flying in from many a city trek in Malaysia I thought Siem Reap was going to be a chilled one. In my head (and from what I have been told) I thought Siem Reap in Northern Cambodia to be a small town laced with culture but all the same quiet and with not much to do but wander temples. We landed slap bang in the middle of Khmer (Cambodian) New Year! 

As has been the tradition for Emma and I we somehow picked the time of year that our chosen destination was the busiest. I would say Siem Reap was the busiest we have seen yet. On landing we took a tuk tuk from the airport and after hitting the few hostels on our list we soon reverted to trying what seemed like every other door in an attempt to find accommodation. Everywhere was fully booked, everywhere! 

After the rest of the morning and almost the entire afternoon searching we finally found somewhere to stay. A nice place but at the top of what felt like a few hundred steps. It's was a hotel (not a hostel) in the middle of town and unfortunately the owner was requesting a crazy amount to stay. We had no choice and set up home for one night only. 

The next day we again took a tuk tuk to Angkor Wat and what a day it was. Back in Siem Reap town the hustle and bustle was a burden but here seeing the buzz of thousands of people with flowers, incense and many offerings for the temple gods was amazing. 

We spent the entire day wandering around Angkor. It's a massive temple in its own right and we thought we would leave the further temple complex ,stretching many miles, until the next day. Along side the main temple sat a festival for the new year and later that evening as the sun set we lit candles along with many thousands of Cambodians and set them afloat on Angkor Wats surrounding moat. So beautiful. 

Later that evening we sat on our rooftop balcony and overlooking the street we could see another large throng of people cheering and shouting, dressed to the nines and all heading the one way. To the north of the town we seen areal lights (big batman lights) and quickly decided that whatever it was we should get ready too and head with all of the others, talk about sheep! 

Our flocking payed off though, we followed the crowd being pushed and pulled and eventually ended up on a massive street filled with bars, stalls and more people than it was ever imagined to hold. This was the Khmer New Year street party, we later found out it goes on for two weeks! As we walked the street we could see clouds of power, people covered head to toe in white dust and others dancing and throwing the stuff until we ourselves were covered too. It seemed some used baby powered and others, well god only knows. This is a Cambodian tradition at this time of year. It's pretty safe to say that night we immersed ourselves in that tradition too.

The next day we woke up early, super early. It was before 5am and still super dark. All the lights and music from the night before had died and outside our pre booked tuk tuk was awaiting. 

That morning we heading straight back to Angkor wat for the sunrise. I can't really put it into adequate words but our pictures tell a thousand words. Amazing... 

For the rest of the morning and into the afternoon our tuk tuk driver, the cutest and most well mannered, always smiling and polite Pyket took us around the entire complex including stops at nearly every temple. We visited most...

My personal favourite temple was Ta Prohm, the location for Tomb Raider. You can see why they chose this place for a location. Ta Prohm was so complex in itself, so intriguing and unbelievably interesting. In that way Ta Prohm was a little like Siem Reap too. 

Drunken booking blunder?

Half way through our Filipino trip we booked flights to Malaysia. Originally we had the plan to fly straight to voluntary work in Cambodia but seeing all non extortionate flights passed through Kuala Lumpur I thought we would opt for a few day stop over in what we had heard was a bustling and busy yet culturally vibrant hub. 

When we arrived we did what we mostly always do, it's pretty sensible and some might say boring but we checked our onward journey plans so that we could settle in with the peace of mind that we knew when we were travelling on. On checking our tickets it quickly became apparent our planned two day 'stop over' was going to be a little more than that. Il take the flack for this one, I had hastily booked the flights in a "ta da I booked flights!" kinda way one night whilst Emma was in the shower, unfortunately this haste was to seemingly be my downfall. I had accidentally booked flights to a city that looked more grey than great, a place that seemed more congested than cultural. It seemed we had nearly a week in total booked and as we lay on top of our bed I have to admit I was dreading it. How would we fill a week with trashy touristy sites in a place where booze was more expensive than our bed for the night. Shit... 

As it turns out KL wasn't quite the shit storm we thought it might be. KL was in fact one of the most surprising concrete jungles I've visited. Every Time we thought we had seen just about the lot another fellow traveller tipped us off on something even better. 

In KL we stayed at Raggae Mansion and after a few years of hearing buzz about this place I thought surely it couldn't live up to the hype but it did! With the plush air con and TV rooms and views over the city for a few dollars a night, an in house cinema, 3 bars (one on the roof) and so much space to hang we really enjoyed our stay there. 

During our city time we visited Petronas Towers and even took a night time stroll up there to watch Disney Cinderella in the Tower Cinema. Magic! 

We also visited the contemporary visual arts museum...

And took time to skate lots and walk even more! 

Batu Caves just a few stops out of the city were pretty amazing (although the caves themselves didn't excite me too much)

I loved the mix of amazing food with Indian, Thai and Indonesian influences. 

Many nights we spent wandering Chinatown and sampling what it had to offer too. 

Best of from Malaysia was getting to see a city that we thought might be so underwhelming but in fact turned out to be one of the the best on my travels so far. Kuala Lumpur is very much highly recommend! 

To Siem Reap...

A ticket to anywhere...

I'm sitting waiting for my class in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Bob Marley is playing as music is the theme for our class today. I haven't written now in a month and in that month I have moved from Manila to Malapascua and onto Cebu in the Philippines followed by a weeks stint in Malaysia before hitting the North of this beautiful country in Siem Reap. 

Just like my last visit to the first beautiful central Filipino island on the list this time around I also ended up on Malapascua by fate. On my last visit I missed a flight in Cebu and after a tip off from the most helpful girl at the airport I discovered an island rich in scenery and with western influence to a minimum. Then it really became one of my favourite places yet.

This time It was just past 5am as we stood 3 weeks into our adventure in the middle of Manila Airport, destination unknown. Emma and I were fresh from our failed bus station trip to get up north as we exhausted all other avenues of travel over the past few days in an attempt to travel to the apparently unrivalled beauty of Luzon. Unfortunately for us Holy Week fell slap bang in the middle of our plans and although we had heard it would be busy we couldn't of imagined just how manic this major holiday was to become. 

No trains, buses, cars, bikes or bloody men on horseback went northbound or south for that matter. Knowing that we were clearly stuck and with a week and a bit until our flight from Manila to Malaysia we made an early morning decision that was to change our plan entirely. 

Seeing air Asia was the only desk opened early we approached the counter desperate and still bleary eyed to ask...

"Do you have space on your next flight?"

"To where sir?" 

"Anywhere!"

With the answer to my request it was a tick for my bucket list and I think it's safe to say emma was happy and relieved too.

We had booked a flight taking off in less than 2 hours for Cebu. The flight was pricey by local travel standards but we reasoned since I had been previously it would be easier and a little cheaper to find good accommodation, street food and transport once we were there.

We arrived in Cebu for 3 and grabbed our bags straight into a taxi to get to the bus station just in time to catch our next ride. The sun was settling as we arrived by boat over the short stretch of Coral sea, there we could see the island I so fell in love with a year and a bit ago from then. 

Malapascua didn't disappoint! 

After one night in random accomodation we made our way for a week with my friend Jun Jun at his rasta style place, Villa Sandra.  

we spent time with the hula, swimming and snorkelling on beautiful bounty beach...

A few days we hiked up north to find deserted beaches all to ourselves...

On Malapascua we made good friends in Mark and Scott. We watched the lunar eclipse, had fires on the beach, went night swimming and illuminated clouds of phospherescent plankton and we had the (somewhat random) honour of judging the local Miss Malapascua competition. 

Malapascua has recently felt the full force of hurricanes, in parts it is noticeably straining with a waste management problem and a number of western style small hotels and business' along the beach have obviously had a boom. All the same this island is once more a place that I know I will see again. 

Back to Cebu...